The old town of Castello d'Empuries is compact and best explored without much agenda. Lanes run from the basilica to small squares and fragments of medieval fabric: arcades, stone houses, bits of wall and quiet corners that still feel lived in.
It is not polished like some better-known Catalan villages, and that is part of the appeal. You can see the town's former importance without feeling that every doorway has been staged for visitors. Aim for a slow wander before lunch or in the cooler light of late afternoon.