Spanish food is regional, seasonal, and almost entirely excellent. The national cuisine is not one thing but a collection of distinct regional traditions loosely held together by olive oil, garlic, and a fondness for cured pork.
Tapas originated in Andalusia and have spread everywhere, but the tradition varies by region. In Andalusia and Madrid, tapas are small plates that come free with drinks in traditional bars. In most of the rest of Spain, you order and pay for them. In the Basque Country they're called pintxos (pronounced "pinchos") — small snacks served on bread, displayed on the bar counter, and typically charged by the piece. San Sebastián is the apotheosis of this: the old town has dozens of bars and the pintxos are extraordinary.
Jamón is eaten throughout Spain, but there's an important distinction: jamón serrano is cured mountain ham made from white pigs, good and common; jamón ibérico de bellota is from free-range black Iberian pigs fed on acorns, cured for several years, and one of the finest things you can eat anywhere. The latter is expensive — don't confuse it with the cheaper ibérico products on supermarket shelves.
Paella comes from Valencia and, in its original form, is made with chicken and rabbit, not shellfish. Seafood paella and mixed paella are derivative versions, widely served at tourist restaurants. For the real thing, go to Valencia. Avoid any paella sitting under a heat lamp.
Bacallà (bacalao) — salt cod — appears across the country in dozens of preparations. In the Basque Country, dishes like bacalao al pil-pil (a rich emulsified sauce made from the fish's own gelatin) are considered the apex of the local kitchen.
Gazpacho and salmorejo are cold tomato-based soups from Andalusia, at their best in summer when tomatoes are ripe. Salmorejo is thicker, richer, and often topped with jamón and hard-boiled egg.
Wine is taken seriously and is often excellent value. Rioja is the most famous region, producing structured red wines from tempranillo. Ribera del Duero makes more powerful reds. Albariño from Galicia is a bright, slightly sparkling white that pairs well with seafood. Sherry (jerez) from Cádiz — especially dry fino and manzanilla — is one of the world's most underrated wines and the correct accompaniment to tapas in the south.
Vermouth has seen a strong revival across Spain. The Saturday vermut (vermouth o'clock, roughly noon–2pm) is a genuine social ritual in Barcelona, Madrid, and elsewhere. Served with soda, ice, and an olive, it's the proper pre-lunch drink.
Eating hours can catch visitors off guard. Breakfast is light — coffee and a tostada or pastry. Lunch (2–4pm) is the main meal; a three-course menú del día at a local restaurant is typically €12–15 and represents excellent value. Dinner is late — most restaurants don't fill until 9:30–10pm.