Pulpería Ezequiel is the dining destination that makes Melide a stop on any serious Galician food itinerary. The kitchen does essentially one thing — pulpo á feira, octopus cooked in vast copper cauldrons, served on wooden plates with sweet Galician paprika and coarse salt — and does it as well as it has ever been done.
The dining room is plain: tile floor, paper napkins, communal wooden tables. Order an unaged Ribeiro white in a porcelain cup (the local way), the octopus by the ración, and a plate of fried pimentos de Padrón. Bread is country-style and cut at the table.
Open daily for lunch only. No reservations — arrive at noon or after two-thirty to skip the queue.