O Ribeiro is Galicia's oldest wine region, a valley carved by the Avia and Miño rivers about 30 kilometres south of Ourense. The vines here predate the Romans, and the white wines — made from Treixadura, Godello, and other indigenous grapes — were famous across medieval Europe long before Albariño became fashionable.
The valley's capital is Ribadavia, one of the most picturesque towns in the province of Ourense. A medieval quarter of granite arcades and narrow streets slopes down to the river, with the remains of a castle, the ogival church of Santo Domingo, and a well-preserved Jewish quarter dating to the 11th century. The Porta Nova neighbourhood still has the feel of an earlier age.
Beyond Ribadavia, the valley is a landscape of terraced hillsides and small stone villages. Wineries are scattered through the hills around Leiro and San Clodio, many of them occupying traditional Galician pazos (manor houses). This is a quiet corner of Galicia — no crowds, no tour buses, just vines and river and granite.