Västerås old town is compact enough to walk in an hour, clustered around the cathedral on a slight rise above the river. The streets around Kyrkbacken and the medieval quarter have cobblestones, low wooden and brick buildings, and a scale that feels genuinely old — not prettified, but not derelict either.
The key sights — cathedral, castle, and city museum — are all within a few minutes of each other. Between them are independent shops, cafes in old buildings, and the occasional half-timbered house that survived the 20th century's enthusiasm for demolition. In summer, the outdoor seating on Stora Torget fills with locals. This is where to spend the first morning in Västerås.