Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli is the church in Lugano to make time for, even if you are otherwise here for the lake and mountains. Its great treasure is Bernardino Luini's vast Renaissance fresco of the Passion and Crucifixion, a work that fills the dividing wall with crowded, dramatic detail.
The church stands near the lakeside promenade, so it is easy to combine with a walk along the water. Step inside slowly after the brightness of the lakefront; the contrast between Lugano's resort polish outside and the serious Lombard painting inside is exactly what makes the stop memorable.