Lugano's setting does a lot of the work — the lake, the surrounding hills, and the relaxed Italian-Swiss pace make the city easy to enjoy. The two cable cars up Monte San Salvatore and Monte Brè are the obvious highlights, offering sweeping views over the lake and the Alps. Down at lake level, MASI has some of the best modern art in the country, and the Piazza della Riforma anchors the social life of the city, particularly during the summer jazz festival. The whole atmosphere is a curious blend of Swiss efficiency and Italian ease — more espresso than fondue.