By train
Ukrainian Railways (Ukrzaliznytsia) is the backbone of intercity travel and genuinely good. The network is extensive, trains run on time, and overnight sleeper services between major cities are comfortable and cheap. The Soviet-era network means most cities are well connected.
Book at uz.gov.ua or through the Ukrzaliznytsia app — you can pay with a foreign card. Buying tickets at station windows is also possible but queues can be long. Book popular routes (Kyiv–Lviv, Kyiv–Odessa, Kyiv–Ivano-Frankivsk) at least a few days in advance.
Note that some routes in the east and south are suspended or disrupted due to the war. Check current service status before travelling.
By bus
Buses fill gaps in the rail network and are particularly useful for smaller western cities and Carpathian towns. Services are reliable and cheap. BlaBlaCar Bus and various private operators serve routes between Lviv, Ivano-Frankivsk, Uzhhorod, Chernivtsi and other western cities. Intercity marshrutkas (minibuses) run frequently but can be cramped.
By car
Hiring a car is practical for exploring the western regions — the Carpathians, the castle routes of Podolia, the villages around Lviv. Roads in western Ukraine are reasonable, though potholes are common outside major cities. Drive on the right. Fuel (petrol and diesel) is widely available. Speed cameras are used on main roads.
International driving licences are accepted. Ukrainian law requires you to have your licence, passport, vehicle registration and insurance. Do not drink and drive — the limit is effectively zero.
Avoid travelling by car in areas near the front or under air alert, and never approach military checkpoints without slowing well in advance, following instructions, and keeping your hands visible.
Within cities
Most Ukrainian cities have well-developed public transport: trams, trolleybuses, buses and metro (in Kyiv, Kharkiv and Dnipro). Fares are low. Contactless card payment is accepted on Kyiv Metro and increasingly on surface transport in major cities.
Bolt and Uber operate in Kyiv, Lviv, Odessa and other cities. Taxi prices are very reasonable by European standards.
Kyiv Metro note
The Kyiv Metro doubles as a bomb shelter — platforms are extremely deep. During air alerts, the metro continues running and stations fill with people seeking shelter. It's worth knowing your nearest station.