Highlights

Ukraine has a remarkable range of things to see and do. Many of its greatest attractions are still accessible, though the war has made travel to the east and south deeply dangerous.

Lviv is the jewel of western Ukraine — a compact, walkable city of Baroque churches, cobblestone lanes, and a coffee culture that borders on obsession. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It feels more Central European than Soviet, which makes sense: the city spent centuries under Polish and Austro-Hungarian rule. See Lviv.

Kyiv has a weight that few European capitals match. The golden domes of the Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra (Monastery of the Caves) rise above the Dnipro River, and inside the hillside labyrinth are the mummified remains of monks venerated for a thousand years. St. Sophia Cathedral, also UNESCO-listed, contains 11th-century mosaics and frescoes of startling beauty. The descent of St. Andrew's Church to Podil, the old merchant district, is the most atmospheric walk in the city. See Kyiv.

The Carpathian Mountains in the west offer hiking, skiing and village life largely untouched by the war. The main resort area around Bukovel draws skiers in winter. The towns of Yaremche and Ivano-Frankivsk make good bases. See Carpathian Mountains.

Chernobyl — the exclusion zone around the 1986 nuclear disaster — had become one of Ukraine's most visited attractions before the war. Tours from Kyiv were running until 2022. The zone was occupied by Russian forces briefly in the early weeks of the invasion. Access conditions are uncertain; check current status before planning a visit. See Chernobyl.

Odessa is Ukraine's most cosmopolitan city, built on Black Sea trade and home to a uniquely sardonic local culture. The Potemkin Steps, the Opera House, and the vast underground catacombs are its landmarks. The city has been struck by missiles since 2022 and the beach resort life that once defined summer there has stopped. See Odessa.

Kamyanets-Podilskyi — a medieval fortress city in Podolia, about 100km from the Romanian border — is one of the country's most dramatic sights. The 14th-century castle sits on a rocky island in a river canyon. It's in a part of Ukraine that is relatively calm.

The Hutsul region in the Carpathian foothills preserves one of Ukraine's most distinctive folk cultures — woodcarving, embroidery, and Easter egg decoration (pysanky) remain living traditions. The Kolomyia Pysanka Museum is the country's best showcase. See Kolomyia.