A modern-take old pub down a narrow alley off the Quayside, run by the same people behind Caffe Vivo next door. British food done seriously — game in season, smoked-fish kedgeree, suet puddings, properly roasted bones. The Sunday lunch is the city's gold standard and books up weeks in advance.
A good cask-ale list and a small but considered wine selection round it out. Reservations essential at weekends, walk-ins possible at quieter weekday lunches.