A few miles south-east of Lydford, the volcanic plug of Brent Tor rises 1,100 feet abruptly from the moorland, capped by St Michael de Rupe — built in 1130 and at 37 feet long, one of the smallest complete parish churches in England. It is also one of the most dramatically sited: the views on a clear day take in both the Bristol and English Channels.
The path up from the lay-by is short but steep, ten minutes of climbing past gorse and grazing sheep. Services are held in the church most weeks of the year, and the building is usually unlocked.