For five or six kilometres between Morar and Arisaig, the road runs past a string of small white beaches backed by dunes, machair, and the occasional caravan. The sand is genuinely silver-white — milled shell rather than mineral grain — and the water, on a sunny day, is a luminous turquoise that looks more like the Hebrides than the mainland.
Camusdarach, Portnaluchaig and Traigh are the best-known of the bays. None has facilities to speak of; bring lunch and a windbreak. The light is better in the late afternoon, when the sun moves around behind the islands of Eigg and Rum and silhouettes them across the Sound of Sleat.