Orkney is an archipelago of about seventy islands off the north coast of Scotland, separated from the mainland by the Pentland Firth. Only about twenty are inhabited, and most visitors stick to Mainland, the largest island, where the two towns — Kirkwall and Stromness — sit on opposite coasts.
What makes Orkney extraordinary is its density of prehistoric sites. Skara Brae, a Neolithic village on Mainland's west coast, is over 5,000 years old and remarkably well preserved. The Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Stenness stand in open farmland between two lochs. Maeshowe, a chambered cairn, is aligned so that the setting sun on the winter solstice lights up the back wall — and Viking raiders left graffiti inside centuries later. The Tomb of the Eagles on South Ronaldsay rounds out the collection.
Beyond the archaeology, Orkney has wild coastal scenery, excellent birdwatching (puffins nest on the cliffs in summer), and a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. The Ba' — a mass street football game through Kirkwall — takes place every Christmas Day and New Year's Day. Ferries run from Scrabster and Gill's Bay in Caithness; NorthLink also operates an overnight service from Aberdeen.
