Flat coral island in the British Virgin Islands, ringed by Horseshoe Reef and long white beaches
Anegada is the odd one out in the British Virgin Islands. While the rest of the chain is volcanic and hilly, Anegada is flat coral and limestone, rising barely eight metres above sea level. It is surrounded by Horseshoe Reef, one of the largest barrier reefs in the Caribbean, which has claimed hundreds of ships over the centuries and now provides some of the finest snorkelling and diving in the territory.
The island has a single settlement, The Settlement, a scattering of pastel houses and a couple of beach bars along the south shore. The main attractions are the beaches — miles of empty white sand stretching along the north coast, with Loblolly Bay and Cow Wreck Beach the standouts. The water is shallow and turquoise for hundreds of metres out.
Anegada is famous for its lobster. The beach restaurants at Loblolly Bay and along the south shore serve it grilled, fresh from the reef, and you generally need to order by mid-afternoon so they can pull it in. The island also has a small population of Caribbean flamingos and the endemic rock iguana at the western salt ponds.
Getting here takes some effort — a small ferry runs from Tortola or you can fly in on a tiny prop plane. That effort is the point. Anegada rewards people who want a Caribbean island that still feels like one.
Guide
Eating Out
Anegada's culinary identity is the lobster. The island sits on the edge of Horseshoe Reef, which produces a steady supply of spiny lobster that ends up grilled at the beach restaurants along the south shore and at Loblolly Bay. The one firm rule: order your lobster before midday, or the kitchen can't arrange the catch in time for dinner. Most restaurants will remind you.
The fish is also excellent — mahi-mahi, snapper, and grouper are all caught locally. Portions are generous and prices are reasonable given the remoteness. The rum punch is strong.
Guide
Getting There
Getting to Anegada requires some effort, which is most of the point. There are two options from Tortola.
Ferry: The Speedy's ferry runs from Road Town, Tortola to Anegada several times a week — check the current schedule as it changes seasonally. The crossing takes about 90 minutes.
Fly: Cape Air and other small charter operators fly from Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport (EIS) on Beef Island, Tortola to Auguste George Airport (NGD) on Anegada. The flight takes about 15 minutes and the views over the reef are remarkable. Charter flights from the US Virgin Islands are also possible.
Day trips from Tortola are possible but barely worth it — Anegada rewards an overnight stay. Most visitors stay for two or three nights.