Puerto Viejo's nightlife is famous on the Costa Rican backpacker circuit — reggae, salsa, and the steady soundtrack of waves. Most of the action concentrates on the main beachfront strip and a few side streets running back from the sand. Bars open late, close late, and stay loose.
Lazy Mon (on the seafront) and Salsa Brava (across from the wave) are the perennial favourites for sundowners and live music. The cheap Imperial beers come in tall bottles; rum or guaro is what to order if you want to fit in. Cafés serving good coffee and breakfasts have multiplied in recent years — the Bread & Chocolate café-bakery is a long-standing morning fixture.