Kekoldi is one of the four indigenous territories of the Bribri people, set in the hills above Puerto Viejo. Community-run tours explain Bribri farming traditions and crafts; some include a steep walk up to a forest-clad ridge that is one of the best raptor-migration viewing points in the Americas.
In peak migration (mid-October to mid-November), thousands of birds an hour stream south along the Caribbean slope. The hike to the migration count station is moderately strenuous and best done early in the morning before clouds build. Out of migration season, the reserve is still a good half-day visit — quiet forest, local food, and a small reptile breeding centre for iguanas.
The scale is the thing: around three million raptors funnel down this coast in autumn, making Kékoldi the second most important migration corridor in the world after Veracruz. Visits are arranged through community guides, who also walk you through the medicinal plants and the cacao the Bribri have grown here for centuries; the tourism income supports the territorial guard programme that keeps land invasions at bay. Book ahead through the tourism office in Puerto Viejo.