For jerk chicken cooked over pimento wood the way it should be, head to the jerk pits on the Norman Manley Boulevard north of town. The Negril Jerk Centre is among the best: whole chickens go on the coals mid-afternoon and are ready by early evening, fragrant with allspice and scotch bonnet. Order half a chicken with festival (a fried dough dumpling) and eat it at a roadside table. It is the cheapest and most satisfying meal you will have in Negril.