Beaches

Martinique has two standout beaches for anyone willing to get slightly off the road.

In the south, Anse Trabaud lies just before Sainte-Anne, reached by a five-kilometre dirt track (you will need a car or a lucky thumb). It is a long, quiet stretch of white sand with rolling waves and almost no one around -- one of the finest beaches in the Caribbean if you value solitude.

In the north, Anse Couleuvre sits beyond Le Precheur at the very end of the coastal road, followed by a short 200-metre path through forest. This one has dramatic black volcanic sand, backed by jungle and facing open ocean. It feels like the edge of the world.

Both beaches are undeveloped -- bring water and something to eat.