By car: Renting a car is by far the best way to see the island. The road network is good and well signposted, distances are short, and most of the best places — the northern distilleries, the Caravelle Peninsula, the quiet southern beaches — are inconvenient without one. Rental agencies operate at the airport and in Fort-de-France; book in advance in peak season. A European or international driving licence is accepted. Driving is on the right.
Traffic in and around Fort-de-France is genuinely bad during rush hours — worse than you might expect on a small island. Plan accordingly and avoid the city arteries in the morning and late afternoon.
By taxi collectif (taxis collectifs): Shared minibuses run fixed routes between Fort-de-France and the main towns from early morning until around 6pm on weekdays, with reduced or no service on Sundays and holidays. They are cheap and they do go everywhere eventually, but schedules are informal and waits can be long. Catch them at the main terminal near the waterfront in Fort-de-France.
By taxi: Regular taxis are metered and available at the airport, ferry terminal, and major hotels. They are expensive by Caribbean standards. Agree on the fare before getting in if the driver is not using the meter.
By ferry within the island: Fast ferries (vedettes) cross the bay from Fort-de-France to Pointe du Bout, Anse Mitan, and Anse à l'Ane on the south coast. Frequent service, cheap, and much faster than driving around the bay. The ferry landing is at the waterfront near La Savane.
By bike and scooter: Rentals are available in tourist areas. The terrain is hilly in the north and requires some fitness; the south is easier. Traffic and road conditions mean cycling is not relaxed, but it is feasible.