The Jardín de la Unión and the alleys around the Plaza San Fernando are where most visitors and locals end up. The cafés are open all day for coffee and tortas; in the evening the same places become bars, with mariachi at the Jardín and quieter trova at the surrounding plazas. The student population keeps the scene lively year-round, and unusually for a Mexican city of this size, the late-night options are extensive.