One of the best pre-Columbian and colonial art museums in Mexico, and significantly less crowded than the national museums in Mexico City. The permanent collection spans the major Mesoamerican civilisations — Olmec stone heads, Maya ceramics, Aztec ceremonial objects, Mixtec gold — presented in a thoughtfully designed sequence that makes the cultural relationships clear.
The colonial-era galleries on the upper floors cover New Spain painting, sculpture, and decorative arts. Temporary exhibitions tend to be excellent and often draw international loans. The rooftop cafe has one of the best views of the cathedral in the city. Allow at least two hours; the museum is well air-conditioned and a good midday retreat.