La Especial has been feeding Tijuana since 1952. The subterranean restaurant, reached by a staircase descending from Avenida Revolución, is a deliberate antidote to the tourist trap restaurants above ground. The decor is unchanged from mid-century: wooden booths, old photographs of Tijuana on the walls, a reliable bustle.
The menu is traditional northern Mexican — carne asada, enchiladas, chile relleno, machaca (dried shredded beef), and the excellent house rice and beans. Portions are large and prices are low by any standard. The combination plates give the best overview of the kitchen's range. This is the kind of place where locals bring family from out of town to show off real Tijuana cooking.
Cash is preferred, though cards are sometimes accepted. The restaurant fills quickly at lunch on weekends.