Kralendijk, locally called Playa, is Bonaire's capital and practical base. The old centre is only a few blocks deep, running between Kaya Grandi and a waterfront promenade of dive piers, restaurants, and low Dutch-Caribbean buildings painted yellow, blue, and pink. It is lively by Bonaire standards and very quiet by almost any other capital's.
Cruise days change the mood completely. Stalls spread across Wilhelmina Square and the waterfront becomes crowded for several hours; once the ship leaves, the centre settles back into itself. The best short walk links the old customs house and fish market with Fort Orange, then loops inland along Kaya Grandi.
Terramar Museum gives the strongest introduction to Bonaire's archaeology and social history. Afterward, the waterfront is good for an unhurried drink and for watching boats cross to Klein Bonaire. Serious sightseeing does not fill a day here, and that is part of the charm.
Most of the island's restaurants cluster in and around town. Reserve ahead for At Sea and other small dining rooms, especially over weekends and during the northern winter season. A car is unnecessary in the centre but essential once you start exploring the coast.