Concepción Volcano

Concepción is the perfect-coned northern volcano of Ometepe, rising 1,610 metres straight out of the lake. From the western shore of Granada or Rivas it is the dominant feature of the southern horizon — a textbook stratovolcano shape that draws comparisons with Mount Fuji.

The climb to the summit is brutal — ten or eleven hours round trip, with no water, no shade and loose volcanic rubble for the final third. Guides are mandatory and worth the money: they will turn you back if cloud comes in, which it almost always does. For most travellers the better option is the lower-slope hikes from Moyogalpa or Altagracia, which give you the views without the suffering. The volcano can puff ash without warning, so check current activity before any climb.

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Concepción is one of the most active volcanoes in Nicaragua, with significant eruptions in 1957, 1986 and 2007. Locals on Ometepe still farm the rich volcanic soil right up to the lower slopes — there is something defiantly Nicaraguan about cultivating bananas on the side of a mountain that will, sooner or later, blow its top again.