☰Dauphin Island

Dauphin Island has two main beach areas. The public beach near the pier and Red School is the traditional spot, with easy access and the island's main cluster of restaurants nearby.

The West End Beach park on the island's west side offers a more resort-like experience. Two hundred palm trees line the entrance, and the Tiki Village of authentic structures imported from Bali houses food vendors, souvenir shops, and water sport gear. There are restrooms, changing areas, showers, and canvas shade structures with misting systems. Lifeguards and security are on duty. Entry is $20 per vehicle, but walk-ins are free.

The west end beach stretches from the Gulf side to the bay, so anglers can fish the bay side among natural vegetation while swimmers enjoy the Gulf surf on the other.

The Oar House on Bienville Boulevard, across from the public beach and pier, serves made-to-order sandwiches, thick burgers, and homemade soups in a bright nautical setting. The seafood chowder and tomato basil soup are excellent. Full bar with Sam Adams and Stella on draft, and a spacious back deck under live oaks for catching the sunset.

Lighthouse Bakery on Chaumont Avenue is where the island goes for breakfast. The cinnamon rolls and pastries are outstanding, and the omelets come loaded with lump crab. Good specialty coffee too.

Barnacle Bill's at the marina is the longtime local hangout. Fried seafood platters piled high with shrimp, Gulf fish, scallops, and hushpuppies. The decor is old-fashioned comfort -- big waterfront windows and a retro feel.

Island BBQ on Bienville Boulevard does tender ribs with homemade sauce. The meat falls off the bone. Pulled pork, burgers, Brunswick stew, and sweet iced tea round out the menu. Eat on the flagged deck out front.

Flamingo Fae's Beachside Grill at the Isle Dauphine golf course is small but serves a full menu from breakfast through dinner, with dune-top views of the Gulf.

Dauphin Island is reached via the Dauphin Island Bridge (Alabama State Route 193), which connects the island to the mainland south of Mobile. From Mobile, the drive is around 45 minutes. From Gulf Shores, you can take the Mobile Bay Ferry — a passenger and vehicle ferry that crosses from Fort Morgan on the eastern shore to the dock near Fort Gaines at the eastern tip of Dauphin Island. The ferry runs seasonally and takes about 45 minutes; check the schedule in advance as it does not run year-round on all days.

The nearest airports are Mobile Regional Airport (about an hour north) and Pensacola International Airport (about two hours east). There is no public bus service to the island; a car or bicycle is essential for getting around.

Dauphin Island shopping is concentrated along Bienville Boulevard on the west end. The Ancient Mariner is the classic beachside souvenir shop -- shells, flip-flops, swim suits, Guy Harvey fishing shirts, and Dauphin Island caps with designs found only here. They also rent bikes, which is a pleasant way to explore the island.

The Sand Box is a nautically themed gift shop full of beach decor and a unique line of nautical Christmas ornaments. Marti's of Dauphin Island carries clothing and accessories curated by a former New York model -- higher-end pieces you will not find elsewhere in southern Alabama.

1st Run Video carries used books for beach reading, handcrafted driftwood writing instruments made from surf-smoothed materials, and Sand Island Lighthouse merchandise with proceeds supporting the lighthouse restoration.

Birding is the island's signature activity. Beginning in early April, thousands of songbirds make Dauphin Island their first rest stop after flying 600 miles across the Gulf of Mexico from the Yucatan Peninsula. More than 345 species have been recorded here, earning the island the title of "America's Birdiest Small Coastal City."

The Audubon Sanctuary is 164 acres of maritime pine forest with a freshwater lake, hiking trails, and an observation boardwalk. Passerines tend to settle into the oak grove at the east end near the campground. The Shell Mound, with its ancient live oaks forming a dense canopy, is the most popular birding spot. The towering "Goat Trees" on Grant Street are a local favorite, less crowded than the better-known sites.

The most spectacular birding happens during "fallout" conditions, when birds flying into a headwind or cold front over the Gulf arrive exhausted and literally fall out of the sky by the hundreds onto the island.

Fort Gaines, built in 1821 to protect Mobile Bay, saw action during the Civil War's Battle of Mobile Bay. The fort is well preserved and open to the public. A ferry connects to Fort Morgan across the bay.

The Estuarium at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab is a public aquarium featuring marine life from the Gulf and the Mobile Bay estuary -- a good rainy-day option.

Fishing is excellent year-round. The Dauphin Island Marina runs dozens of fishing tournaments from May through September.

Spring — specifically April through early May — is the best time to visit Dauphin Island if birding is your goal. The spring migration peaks then, and if weather conditions cooperate, the "fallout" events when exhausted songbirds blanket the island are among the most dramatic wildlife spectacles on the Gulf Coast.

Summer is beach season, with warm Gulf water and the island's facilities running at full capacity. Temperatures regularly hit 32°C and the humidity is high. Hurricane season runs June through November, with September the peak month — watch weather forecasts closely if visiting in late summer or autumn. Winter is quiet, mild, and popular with birders looking for waterfowl and shorebirds.