Café Poca Cosa is the city's best modern Mexican restaurant — owned and run for forty years by chef Suzana Davila. The menu changes twice a day; it is written on a portable chalkboard the server brings to your table. Ask for "Plato Poca Cosa" and you get a sampler of three of the day's mains.
Dishes are mostly rooted in classical Mexican (mole, pollo en pipián, carne asada) and presented with care. Closed Mondays. Reservations recommended.