A small, informal Italian restaurant on the plaza that prioritises the kind of food Italians actually eat — hand-rolled pasta, slow-braised meats, anchovy-dressed vegetables, and cannoli that come from real ricotta. The room is tight, the lighting is low, and the noise level on a busy Saturday night is considerable, but none of that gets in the way of the food.
The pasta is made daily; the braised short rib and the tagliatelle with ragu are the dishes people come back for. The wine list is intelligent — heavy on Italian regionality and on Sonoma producers who work in a similar vein. Booking ahead is sensible; the room fills fast and there are no special accommodations for walk-ins.