Pakwan is another of the Tenderloin's bare-bones Pakistani halal kitchens, a counter-service spot on O'Farrell Street where the appeal is straightforward: big plates of well-spiced curry, karahi, and biryani, hot naan from the tandoor, and prices that have long made it a favourite of cab drivers, students, and anyone after a filling meal for very little money. Bring your own drinks; the focus is purely the food.
Like its neighbours, it is plain inside and busiest in the evenings. Order at the till, grab a table, and tear into the naan while it is fresh. Together with Shalimar a block away, it anchors the run of inexpensive South Asian restaurants that are one of the genuine culinary pleasures hidden in this rough but fascinating neighbourhood.