The most formal restaurant in New Haven occupies the ground floor of the ornate 1865 Union League building on Chapel Street. The cooking is French brasserie — steak frites, moules marinières, roast duck — executed with care and served in a high-ceilinged room with dark wood panelling. It is a good choice for a special dinner when the pizza parlours feel too casual. The wine list is serious and the service professional. Reservations recommended.