A blue-collar barbecue joint that locals point at when out-of-town visitors ask where to actually eat. The smoker turns out brisket, ribs, sausage, and pulled pork at lunch and dinner, with classic Louisiana sides — collards, dirty rice, peach cobbler — that creep beyond standard Texas barbecue convention.
The room is plain, the portions are large, and the line moves quickly. It is roadside food at its honest best, and a useful counterweight to a few too many casino buffets in a row.