A converted 1940s drive-in on North State Street in Fondren, run for years by chef Derek Emerson, who put modern Southern cooking on the Jackson map. The dining room is small and the lunch menu — burgers, redfish tacos, fried green tomato BLT — is more casual than the dinner one, which leans into duck, lamb, and well-sourced Gulf fish.
Book ahead for dinner; lunch you can usually walk in. One of the few Jackson restaurants that would hold its own in a much bigger city.