Summer (June to August) brings the largest crowds, warmest water, and full operation of everything from lighthouse climbs to fishing charters. It is also hurricane season, and the island is genuinely exposed: a direct hit can close the island for weeks and cut Highway 12 completely. September is the peak of hurricane season but also one of the nicest months to visit — the water is still warm, the crowds thin, and the surf is excellent.
Spring (April and May) is ideal for birdwatching as migrants move through Pea Island and the seashore. Temperatures are mild and accommodation is easy to find. Autumn draws surf fishermen targeting red drum, which run close to shore in September and October in large numbers.
Winter is cold and quiet. Most restaurants and shops reduce hours or close entirely. The beaches are empty and dramatic, storms are frequent, and there is a particular pleasure in having the lighthouse almost to yourself.