A classic bodegón (traditional Argentine restaurant-bar) on the corner of Peru and Calvo in San Telmo, open since 1864 and largely unchanged. The decor — pressed tin ceiling, wooden bar, old advertisements painted directly onto the walls — is original rather than reconstructed. The menu is traditional Argentine: milanesas, puchero, cazuela de mondongo (tripe stew), and good wine by the carafe.
El Federal is what a neighbourhood corner bar looked like in Buenos Aires before the city became a tourist destination. It is still primarily used by local residents, which becomes clear at lunchtime on weekdays. The café con leche and medialunas are reliable for breakfast; the lunch menu is hearty and cheap.