El Ateneo Grand Splendid

Address Avenida Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta

A 1919 theatre converted into a bookshop — and one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world, by widespread consensus. The auditorium's gilded plasterwork, painted ceiling, and ornate stage remain intact; the stage now hosts a café, the tiers of boxes have been turned into reading alcoves, and bookshelves fill the stalls.

The visual experience of the space is what draws visitors, but El Ateneo is a serious working bookshop with an excellent selection of Spanish-language literature, Buenos Aires history, and Argentine art books. The upstairs alcoves (the old theatre boxes) are good places to sit and read. Don't come on a Sunday afternoon when the line to enter can stretch down the block.

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A story
The Grand Splendid opened in 1919 as a music hall and theatre, where tango performances were broadcast live on radio to the rest of Argentina. The orchestra pit was used for live transmissions; the famous singers of the era performed on the same stage that now serves as the bookshop's café. It became a cinema in 1929, was shuttered in 2000, and reopened as a bookshop in 2000.

Other places in Recoleta