Volver is one of Ushuaia's most reliable restaurants for local seafood, long enough established to have become something of an institution on Av. Maipú near the waterfront. The dining room is warm and wood-panelled, a useful contrast to the cold outside.
The centolla (king crab) here is consistently good — the house speciality is a centolla dish served with local cream and herbs. Merluza negra (black cod/toothfish) and salmon are also on the menu. Prices are high by Argentine standards but not unreasonable for what you get. Reservations advisable in high season.