The Mercado Campesino is Tarija's main market and the best place to understand the local food culture. The produce section is outstanding — the valley's warm climate and fertile soil produce excellent subtropical fruits alongside Andean staples, and the variety on display in a single stall is striking. Chirimoya, tumbo, pacay, and varieties of corn you won't find in any supermarket appear alongside the familiar tomatoes, potatoes, and peppers.
The food stalls around the market perimeter serve some of the best cheap eating in Tarija. Look for saice — a spiced meat stew that is Tarija's signature dish, made with beef, cumin, and chilli, served with potatoes and rice. It's eaten at midday, when the market is at its busiest and the steam from the pots rises above the vendor stalls. Arrive between noon and 2 pm for the full experience.