The Tambaú seafront is the centre of João Pessoa's evening social life. Kiosks along the orla (seafront promenade) serve beer, caipirinhas, and cocktails from mid-afternoon into the night, with tables spread out on the pavement facing the sea. The atmosphere is relaxed and family-friendly — this is where the city comes out in the evenings. The Manaíra neighbourhood, slightly north of Tambaú, has a cluster of bars and a lively nightlife scene at weekends.
In the daytime, the city centre has old-fashioned coffee counters near the Lagoa park where workers come for strong espresso and pão de queijo. These are unpretentious and cheap — the city hasn't been heavily touristified, so the places around the market and the Pátio still feel like they serve the local population.