João Pessoa sits at the easternmost point of the Americas — Cabo Branco, at longitude W34°44'55", is where the continent's land runs out. That geography alone makes it worth a stop on any northeast Brazil itinerary, but there's more to it than a bragging right. It's often cited as Brazil's second-greenest city, and the pace is noticeably slower than Recife or Natal.
The old centre rewards an afternoon on foot. The Igreja São Francisco is one of the finest baroque churches in the country — look up at the ceiling and you'll find a trompe-l'œil panel in perspective said to be one of the largest of its kind in the world. The Lagoa park is a good place to recover afterwards, shaded and calm, and it's also where buses leave for Tambaú, the main beach strip just east of the centre.
Beyond Tambaú, the coast opens up. Praia Cabo Branco is cleaner and less built-up, while Tambaba to the south is one of Brazil's few official nudist beaches. João Pessoa sits between Recife and Natal on the coastal route, and Pipa is an easy day trip north.