Pipa's main street, Avenida Baía dos Golfinhos, is a tight strip of restaurants, bars, and small shops that comes alive at dusk. Seafood dominates — moqueca (Bahian-style fish stew), grilled fish of the day, garlic prawns, and casquinha de siri (stuffed crab shell) — but the village is cosmopolitan enough to offer competent Italian, sushi, and Argentinian steakhouses too.
Cruzeiro do Pescador, Camarão & Cia, and Cumadre are reliable for traditional seafood; Tapas, a small Spanish-style place on the main strip, has been packed every night for a decade. Cheaper, local eating is at the barracas on Praia do Centro — grilled fish, rice, beans, and a beer for less than half the main-street prices. The strip also hosts a string of açaí bowls and tapioca crepe stands open from breakfast.