The coast and the recôncavo (the bay's hinterland) offer rewarding day and overnight trips from Salvador. Morro de São Paulo, on the island of Tinharé three hours south by catamaran, is a backpacker beach village with no cars and the best beaches near the city. Cachoeira, in the recôncavo, is a town of colonial-era sugar and tobacco architecture set above the Paraguaçu river — the place to see candomblé practised in a less tourist-mediated way than in Salvador itself. Praia do Forte, an hour up the coast, has a cleaner reef-protected beach and the Projeto Tamar sea-turtle station.