Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos

The black brotherhood's blue-painted baroque church

The blue baroque church at the foot of the Largo do Pelourinho was built by a brotherhood of enslaved and freed Africans over almost a century, financed by the small sums they were allowed to earn for themselves. The interior is restrained by Salvador standards — pale blue walls, gilded but not gold-encrusted altars — and feels visibly different from the Jesuit and Carmelite churches uphill.

It is one of the most actively used churches in the Pelourinho; mass with samba-de-roda rhythms on Tuesday evenings. The crypt holds the brotherhood's founder members and several of the city's most important Afro-Brazilian families.

things to do sight pelourinho
A story
Built between 1704 and 1796 by a brotherhood of enslaved and freed Africans, working at night because they were not allowed to labour during their own time. They had no money for gold leaf, so they painted the wooden altars blue — the colour of Mary and of Iemanjá.