The Largo de Santana fills every evening with the white-clad baianas frying acarajé — black-eyed-pea fritters split open and stuffed with shrimp, vatapá, caruru, and chilli paste — and with the crowd that comes to eat them. It is one of the most reliably Bahian street-food experiences in the city, and one of the few that has not been packaged for tourists.
Combine with a drink at one of the surrounding bars and a walk along the small beach below. The acarajé is hottest from around 6pm onward.