Trancoso is the polished, barefoot village south of Arraial da Ajuda, famous for the grassy Quadrado, a line of low colonial houses, and beaches that still look half wild once you walk beyond the first cluster of restaurants. It began as a Jesuit settlement in the 16th century, became a quiet fishing village, and then slowly turned into one of Bahia's most desirable coastal escapes.
The best thing about Trancoso is that it has kept its sense of scale. The village centre has no grand resort strip: just the Quadrado, the small white Igreja de Sao Joao Batista, and lanes that drop through palms toward Praia dos Nativos and Praia dos Coqueiros. At night, the Quadrado is lit softly and becomes the place to eat, drink, and watch the village dress up without quite admitting that it has dressed up.
The coast is the real reason to come. Close to town, Nativos and Coqueiros are easy, social beaches with warm water and beach bars. South of the village, Rio Verde and Itapororoca feel quieter and more spacious. Praia do Espelho, reached by a rough road or a long organised outing, is the showpiece: cliffs, reef pools at low tide, and water that justifies the name Mirror Beach on a clear day.
Trancoso is easy to visit from Arraial, but it rewards a night or two. Prices climb sharply in high season, especially around New Year, and the rougher beach roads are best treated with patience after rain.