Arraial da Ajuda is a beach village on the coast of southern Bahia, across the river from Porto Seguro — the spot where the Portuguese first landed in Brazil over 500 years ago. Despite its proximity to Porto Seguro's package tourism, Arraial has kept its village atmosphere: dirt streets lined with colourful houses, a hilltop church with ocean views, and a string of beautiful beaches backed by low cliffs.
The beaches are the main draw. Mucugê and Parracho are the liveliest, with beach bars and music. Pitinga, further south, has dramatic clay cliffs and fewer crowds. For real solitude, walk south to Taipe or Rio da Barra. The water is warm year-round, the sun reliable, and the coconut water cold.
Arraial also has serious nightlife for a small village — parties start after midnight and go until morning, especially during Carnival, New Year, and the São João festival in June. The Rua do Mucugê, the main street, is lined with restaurants, bars, and shops. From here, you can take day trips south to Trancoso (a quieter, more upscale village) and Caraíva (even more remote, and until recently without electric light).
The old Igreja Nossa Senhora d'Ajuda sits at the top of the village, with a viewpoint over the river and the coast. To get here, fly to Porto Seguro from any major Brazilian city, then take the ferry across the river and a short bus or taxi up the hill.