Caxias do Sul eats Italian — or rather, it eats Italian-Brazilian, a tradition that has diverged interestingly from the original over 150 years. The base is the cuisine of the Veneto: polenta, pasta, gnocchi, and roast meats. The local speciality is galeto — young roasted chicken served with polenta, salami, bread, and soup. The cantinas (traditional restaurants) in the city and along the wine route serve this combination, and it is the best introduction to the local food culture.
Casa Edon on the outskirts of the city is one of the most respected traditional cantinas in the region, with galeto and polenta prepared according to long-established methods. Book ahead on weekends.
Cantina Piero in the city centre is a more accessible option for a proper Italian-influenced lunch: pasta, risotto, and local wine, at prices considerably lower than equivalent cooking in a major Brazilian city.
The Bento Gonçalves area (40 minutes from Caxias) has more upscale restaurants attached to wineries — Famiglia Valduga and Miolo both have good restaurants open for lunch.