The Lluta valley runs north-northeast from Arica through the desert to the Andes, and the road into it (CH-11, the route to Putre and the altiplano) climbs gently for the first thirty kilometres. The valley walls on either side are covered in dozens of pre-Columbian geoglyphs — figures of llamas, eagles, men and abstract motifs scratched into the desert varnish by Tiwanaku-era caravan herders between AD 1000 and 1400.
The largest groups are at kilometres 13 (Cerros de Sombrero), 16, and 19; an information board at each tells you what to look for. They are best in early-morning or late-afternoon raking light. A rental car or a tour is easier than the local micro buses; combine with a stop at Poconchile mission and the cardón cactus forest further up the valley.