The adventure camps that line the approach to the Río Negro all run their own dining facilities, and these are where the vast majority of visitors eat. The format is consistent: a large open-sided rancho with wooden tables and benches, a kitchen turning out straightforward Colombian countryside cooking, and a menu calibrated to fuel people who have just spent a morning throwing themselves into a river. Lunch is the main meal of the day and usually the one included in rafting packages.
Sancocho de gallina — chicken simmered slowly with yuca, plantain and corn — turns up reliably across all the camps, and for good reason. It is warming, filling and well-suited to the communal serving style. Bandeja elements (rice, beans, chicharrón, avocado, arepa) appear in various combinations, often served with a large glass of fresh fruit juice: guanábana, maracuyá, lulo, mora. The fruit juices alone are worth lingering over; this lower-elevation climate suits tropical fruits that rarely appear in Bogotá's markets in the same condition.
In the village of Tobia itself, a few small fondas serve the same staples for passing travellers and local workers. These are simpler and cheaper than the camp restaurants, and finding them requires no more than a walk around the plaza. They keep informal hours and may not be open outside of meal times.