By air. Esmeraldas has a small airport, Carlos Concha Torres (ESM), with daily flights from Quito (about 30 minutes). It is the easiest way to reach the coast from the highlands.
By road. Buses from Quito take about 6–7 hours via Calacalí and the road that drops down through cloud forest. From Guayaquil the coastal route via Manta and Pedernales is about 9–10 hours. From Cali and the Colombian border at San Lorenzo, regular buses run south down the coast.
The bus terminal is in the southern part of the city; the city centre and Las Palmas are about 15 minutes by taxi.
Safety note. The province has had problems with organised crime in recent years, particularly along the Colombian border. Travel between cities is generally fine during the day; ask locally before night moves.