Frigatebird Hill (Cerro Tijeretas)

A nesting colony of frigate birds within walking distance of the town waterfront.

Cerro Tijeretas is reached by a short trail from the Interpretation Centre — follow the path uphill for about 20 minutes through dry scrub. The summit offers panoramic views over the harbour and across to Isla Lobos. The frigate birds nest in the palo santo trees along the ridge, and at the right time of year the males sit with their inflated red pouches like grotesque ornaments, rattling and calling to attract females passing overhead.

There is also a snorkelling cove at the base of the hill — a small bay where the water is calm and clear. Spotted eagle rays and sea turtles are often seen here. No guide is required; this is one of the few wildlife sites in the Galápagos you can visit completely independently.

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A story
During mating season, male great frigate birds inflate their bright scarlet gular pouches into balloon-like displays that can be seen from 100 metres away — one of the most dramatic courtship performances in the bird world. What makes Cerro Tijeretas unusual is that both great and magnificent frigate birds nest here simultaneously in the same trees; in most other colonies only one species is present. The two are subtly different if you know what to look for: the magnificent has a blue eye-ring on the female; the great has a red one.