Kicker Rock is visible from the town waterfront on a clear day — two improbable fins of dark rock breaking the horizon to the northwest. Getting there requires a day tour, which virtually every agency in town sells. Most tours include snorkelling rather than scuba diving, though dive operators also run dedicated trips for certified divers who want to go deeper along the walls.
The snorkelling is extraordinary even for beginners. The current does most of the work; you drift through the channel and the fish come to you. Frigate birds and blue-footed boobies nest on the ledges of the rock faces above, diving for fish alongside the snorkellers. The tour typically takes 5-6 hours in total, including the boat ride, two or three snorkel sessions, and a packed lunch on the water.